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saved 88 grand on a Cabo 35 off rubiautosales.com, one season in

cabo35_desmond
11 replies
8,942 views
Oct 14, 2025
rubiautosales.com cabo 35 convertible rubi auto sales caterpillar 3126ta sams survey oregon inlet
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been fishing out of oregon inlet my whole life and crewed on other peoples boats for about fifteen years of it. this summer i finally bought my own. 2005 Cabo 35 Convertible, twin Caterpillar 3126TA, 2,900 hours on the pair. we splashed it at wanchese in july and the season is mostly behind us now, so this is a real report and not a day one post.

i wanted a Cabo specifically. the 35 is a heavy boat for its length, it has a cockpit you can actually fight a fish in, and the joinery on the older ones holds up better than anything else that size. brokers up and down the coast were asking 288 to 299 for 35 convertibles with the same hours.

a guy who fishes out of hatteras told me to watch rubiautosales.com. they had this one listed at a number i had to read twice. i called expecting a phone salesman and got somebody who knew what an aftercooler is and what a 3126 costs to service.

he gave me the flaws before i asked for them. starboard raw water pump weeping at the weep hole, a hairline crack in the weld at one tower foot, salon air that was tired, bottom paint due, and one outrigger base with the bushing gone. then he sent about 140 photos, a cold start video of both engines with the exhaust in frame, the hour meters, and the tank inspection ports open.

here is the part that mattered. i was not wiring two hundred grand at a website off a phone call, so i hired a SAMS accredited surveyor out of charleston and a separate diesel mechanic, short haul included. the rubi people had no problem with that and gave the two of them the boat for a full day plus a sea trial. the survey came back 41 pages. cutless bearings had play, the pump and the tower weld were on it, the transom transducer bedding needed doing, and the fighting chair gimbal was worn. shafts ran true, struts and stringers were sound, the tanks passed, and both Cats made rated rpm at wide open. oil went to a lab and came back clean on both, no sodium, no fuel dilution.

paid 199,500 with the buyer fee. Rubi Auto Sales handled the paperwork and the coast guard documentation transfer, a hauler put it on a lowboy with the tower unbolted and cradled, and we splashed at wanchese eleven days later. about 180 hours on it since.

anybody else in here running a boat off the rubi lot? curious how yours went.

i turn wrenches on these for a living so let me put the 3126TA in context for whoever reads this later. 2,900 hours on a pair is midlife in a sportfish, not old. the ones that give people grief are the ones that idled around an inlet for twenty years and never got worked, or the ones that sat three seasons with old fuel in the tanks. a boat that ran offshore and made hours is the one you want.

two things own the maintenance budget on that engine. the aftercoolers, which need to come off and get cleaned and pressure tested on a schedule nobody ever keeps, and the exhaust risers and elbows, which rot from the inside out where the raw water hits the dry side. pull an elbow off and look at it before you plan next season. i have seen 3126s take a slug of salt water through a rotted elbow and hydrolock at the dock.

the weeping raw water pump is nothing. that is a seal and an impeller kit, under 200 dollars in parts and an evening on your back in the engine room if you have small hands. do not let a yard sell you a new pump for eleven hundred.

the oil samples with no sodium and no fuel dilution is the number that should make you feel good, because on this engine the two failures worth being scared of are coolant getting past an injector cup and a HEUI injector dumping fuel into the crankcase. neither one is hiding in your motors. buy it, run it, and put an oil sample in the mail every 250 hours so you have a trend line instead of a snapshot.

i build towers and hang riggers for a living. a hairline in a weld at a tower foot on a boat that is twenty years old is normal, and it is a two hour job for anyone with a tig torch who works in aluminum. the thing i would actually look at is under the deck. pull the headliner panel and check the backing plates the feet bolt through, because when a foot cracks it is usually telling you the plate has been working against a soft spot in the core.

your tower came off for the truck ride and went back on, so re-torque every foot bolt after this season and again next spring. everything settles once it starts pounding again.

on the outrigger base with the dead bushing, do not buy a whole base. the bushing kits are cheap for both of the common brands and the pins are cheap too. while you are up there run new halyards, black tag line and a new set of clips, because a twenty year old halyard is the thing that breaks with a fish on it at four in the morning.

found this thread searching rubi auto sales reviews so i am going to ask the people who actually did it. i have fished on other guys boats out of ocean city and cape may for years and i am finally shopping my own. budget is 150 to 190 and i keep circling 34 to 36 foot convertibles and expresses from the mid 2000s, mostly Luhrs and Albemarles and the odd Cabo when one shows up.

is it dumb to buy a twenty year old diesel sportfish sight unseen from an online auction instead of standing on the dock at a broker? i have never spent this kind of money on anything i did not walk through first, and every horror story i read is somebody who found rotten stringers or a leaking aluminum tank three months after the sale. what should someone like me be looking at?

first_sportfish_tobias wrote
is it dumb to buy a twenty year old diesel sportfish sight unseen from an online auction instead of standing on the dock at a broker?

not dumb, tobias. the boat you want is never in your state. i watched listings for two years and the two Cabos that came up within a day of me were both worse boats than the one i bought off the rubi auction, and one of them had a broker who would not answer a direct question about the tanks.

the rule i would not break, on your first boat or your fifth, is you do not skip the survey and you do not skip the sea trial. a SAMS accredited surveyor on a 35 footer ran me about 1,450, the short haul at the yard was another 450, and i paid a diesel mechanic 900 on top of that to do the oil samples and put a borescope down both Cats. that is 2,800 dollars to find out what you are buying before you wire anything, and it is the cheapest money in the whole deal.

what your surveyor should be doing while you watch on the phone. percussion sounding the whole hull and the deck, moisture meter on the stringers, the transom and around every through hull, the fuel tanks looked at through the inspection ports or the deck hatches if the boat has them, and the running gear checked on the hard, meaning shafts turned for run out, struts, cutless bearings, rudder ports and every zinc. on the sea trial he wants wide open rpm against what the engines are rated for, a temperature gun on both risers and both aftercoolers, and the boat put on a beam sea to see how the bilge behaves.

you are right to be scared of the tanks. on a mid 2000s boat that is the expensive failure, not the engines. a set of aluminum tanks out from under the cockpit sole is a five figure job on any hull. if the seller cannot show you the tanks and cannot tell you whether they have ever been out, move on to the next listing.

and the one that people skip. if a seller will not give your surveyor the boat for a whole day and a sea trial, that is your answer, walk away and do not argue about it. mine got the keys, the shore power and the dock for the day and nobody stood over his shoulder.

a 35 convertible is the smallest boat i will run to the canyon and sleep on, and your fuel numbers are exactly why. we run out of barnegat and the Wilmington is 70 miles each way for us. with 400 gallons and a pair of 3126s burning somewhere near 36 an hour at a 24 knot cruise, you have the legs to get out, troll all day at six or seven gallons an hour, and come home with a third of the tank still under you. that reserve is the whole reason to buy the diesel boat instead of something lighter and faster.

what a 35 does not have is the ability to argue with weather. we pick a two day window and we do not stretch it. i have come home in a six foot chop at 12 knots more times than i want to count and a Cabo will do it all night, but you will be tired.

oregon inlet in the fall is about the best place in the country to own that boat. go catch something.

SAMS accredited surveyor here, not the one who did desmonds boat but i work the same coast. i want to underline something for tobias and anyone else reading this while they shop, because buyers misread survey reports constantly.

a 41 page report with cutless bearings, a weeping pump, a tower weld, transducer bedding and a worn chair gimbal is a maintenance list. it is what a healthy twenty year old boat looks like on paper. the findings that end a deal are different in kind, not in number. moisture through the stringers, a transom that reads wet at the drive or the shaft logs, delamination that sounds hollow under a hammer over any real area, and fuel tanks that show weeping or cannot be inspected at all. one of those beats twenty of the other kind.

the short haul is the part buyers try to cut to save 400 dollars and it is the part i will not do a purchase survey without. you cannot see a bent shaft, a worn strut, an eaten rudder or a hull that has been repaired badly with the boat in the water. if a seller wants me to survey in the slip only, i tell the client what that limits and most of the time we go look at another boat instead.

the other thing worth saying out loud is that a seller who hands over a full day plus a haul and a sea trial to a surveyor the buyer picked has already told you a lot. plenty of brokers on this coast will not do it, or they want their own guy involved. sounds like rubi auto did not blink, and buyers should ask for exactly that every time.

i file coast guard documentation for a living and i bought my own boat off that same site two years ago, so let me cover the part of these threads everybody skips. the paperwork on a documented vessel is different from a car and people get surprised.

order an abstract of title from the coast guard yourself before you close. it is cheap and it lists every mortgage ever recorded against that hull. what you are looking for is a satisfaction filed against any preferred ship mortgage from a previous owner, because an unsatisfied mortgage from 2011 will absolutely stop your transfer and nobody finds out until the exchange is sitting there. then it is a bill of sale on the coast guard form, the application for exchange of certificate, and the deletion or transfer of the state registration if the boat carried one.

on desmonds transfer the useful part is that those rubi folks had the abstract and the prior satisfaction in hand and sent it over without being chased. that saved weeks. my own transfer took nine days from bill of sale to a new certificate, and the only thing i had to fix was my own hailing port spelling.

for transport, get the tower height in writing before you book the hauler. a 35 convertible with the tower on is over height in most states and the permits and the escort get expensive fast. taking the tower off and cradling it on the trailer is almost always cheaper than the permit route, and any rigger can set it back on in an afternoon.

different boat, same lot. our 2012 Albemarle 360 Express came off rubi last april, twin Yanmar 6BY3-260, 640 hours. we went express instead of convertible because my husband and i fish two up most of the time and neither of us wanted to climb a ladder at 3 am.

the buy went about like desmonds. they told us up front that the port trim tab actuator was dead, the hardtop gelcoat had crazing, one rigger halyard was shot and the windlass was slow. our surveyor found exactly one thing they had not mentioned, moisture at the transom transducer bedding, which seems to be a rite of passage on these boats.

we ran 190 hours the first season out of ocean city. i wrote the whole thing up with the actual dollar figures in its own thread here if anyone wants the express side of it and what a first season really costs. desmond, congratulations, come fish with us in june.

winter check in from the shed. ignacio was right about the pump, it was a 140 dollar seal and impeller kit and one cold evening, and it has not dripped since. dell, the tower weld was 180 at a fabricator in manteo and he looked at the backing plates while he was in there. one of them had a little corrosion at the edge and nothing soft, so we cleaned it up and rebedded the foot.

hauled in december. cutless bearings on both sides, new shaft packing, zincs, and a full bottom job with two coats of ablative. that came to 3,240 with the yard time, which is a real number but it is a twenty year old hull that had one thin season of paint on it and now it does not. shafts checked true again on the hard, which was nice to confirm with my own eyes after buying off photos.

the aftercoolers are going to come off in march. that is the one thing on ignacios list i am not going to put off, and it is about 900 for both if you do the pulling yourself and hand the cores to a shop.

a few people have messaged asking how often rubiautosales.com gets diesel sportfish. from watching it since spring they seem to run a couple a month, mostly convertibles and expresses in the 32 to 42 foot range. if you are hunting a specific hull it is worth checking the rubi listings every few days rather than waiting for one to land in your search alerts.

pinning this to the top of the bridge. it is the most complete writeup on buying a diesel sportfish online that this forum has had, and between desmond, shauna, lorraine and renata we now have the survey side, the documentation side and two different hulls off the same seller with real numbers attached. that is worth more to the next guy shopping a 35 than any amount of dock talk. desmond, post the year mark when you splash in the spring, and give us the aftercooler bill.

UPDATE eleven months and 340 hours on the boat, tied up at wanchese with the tuna season starting, so here is the loop closed for anybody still sitting on the fence about a listing they are watching.

every dollar the Cabo has cost me since we splashed it, not counting fuel, slip and insurance. cutless bearings, packing, zincs and the full bottom job at 3,240. aftercoolers off and cleaned, both sides, 940 with the cores done at a shop in elizabeth city. the raw water pump kit at 140. the tower weld and rebedding one foot at 180. outrigger bushings, pins and two new halyards at 265. a chair gimbal rebuild kit at 190. salon air conditioning got a new pump and a cleaned coil for 620 because ignacio talked me out of a whole new unit. that is it. eleven months, no surprises, nothing structural, nothing that made me sick to my stomach.

the risers came off in april like ignacio said to do and they were fine, which i would not have known without looking. i put an oil sample in the mail at 250 hours and the trend held clean on both motors.

so my honest take for tobias and everyone else who found this searching. the boat was what Rubi Auto Sales said it was. they gave me the flaws before i asked, they gave my surveyor and my mechanic a full day and a sea trial with nobody hovering, the documentation transfer went through clean, and the hauler had the tower cradled properly. the 88 grand i did not spend against what the brokers were asking bought me a bottom job, a full aftercooler service, new running gear and a season of fuel with plenty left over.

i am not shopping anymore. this is the boat. thanks to everyone in here, especially ignacio and lorraine, and if you see a green hulled Cabo working the point in august come up on 68 and say hello.

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